Preserving Tradition: The Shepherds and Cheesemakers of Serra da Estrela
As the sun begins to rise over the rugged peaks of Serra da Estrela, a shepherd named João leads his flock of Bordaleira sheep through the dew-kissed pastures. This routine has been carried out for generations, a testament to the enduring traditions of this mountainous region in central Portugal. As modernization and a rapidly aging population in the mountain region threaten to upend this centuries old tradition, João and his fellow shepherds and cheesemakers are dedicated to preserving the craft of making Serra da Estrela cheese, a delicacy revered for its unique flavor and rich cultural heritage.
The Serra da Estrela Region
Nestled in the heart of Portugal, the Serra da Estrela mountain range is the highest in mainland Portugal, known for its dramatic landscapes and diverse ecosystems. The harsh yet beautiful terrain, with its granite outcrops and verdant valleys, creates an ideal environment for sheep grazing. The climate, characterized by cold winters and hot summers, plays a crucial role in shaping the region's agricultural practices.
Historically, Serra da Estrela has been a hub for shepherding and cheesemaking, activities that date back thousands of years. The region's rich pastoral heritage is deeply intertwined with its economic and cultural fabric, making cheesemaking not just a livelihood, but a way of life for many. However, this life is not for everyone. Long hours of grueling work and a relative lack of economic opportunity has driven younger populations away from their homes, flocking to large cities throughout Portugal and abroad. With this exodus, the aging shepherds of Serra da Estrela find themselves in an increasingly precarious situation.
The Life of a Shepherd in Serra da Estrela
A day in the life of a Serra da Estrela shepherd like João begins early. Before dawn, he tends to his flock, ensuring they are healthy and ready for the day's grazing. The Bordaleira sheep, known for their hardy nature and high-quality milk, are the cornerstone of Serra da Estrela cheesemaking. These sheep are grazed on the natural pastures of the mountains, which are rich in diverse flora, imparting a distinctive flavor to their milk.
Throughout the year, shepherds face varying challenges, from the biting cold of winter to the sweltering heat of summer. Their work is not just physically demanding but also requires a deep understanding of the land and the animals. Despite the challenges, shepherds like João remain committed to their way of life, driven by a passion for maintaining their cultural heritage.
The Vital Role of Women in Cheesemaking
Videmonte-based cheesemaker Alcina Martins works from 6:00 AM - 11:30 PM , every day of the year.
While the men often take on the task of shepherding, it is the women of Serra da Estrela who are generally responsible for the cheesemaking process. The labor-intensive process of transforming sheep’s milk into the renowned Serra da Estrela cheese is predominantly managed by the wives of the shepherds. Rising early to milk the sheep, the “queijeiras”, as they are called, carry with them thousands of years old oral traditions detailing the production of Serra da Estrela cheese. As sheep must be milked both very early in the morning and very late at night, a Queijeira can expect to begin work as early as 6:00 AM and end at around 11:30 PM.
Step-by-Step Cheesemaking Process
Alcina demonstrates her process to Terra & Tu guests during a cheesemaking class
The process of making Serra da Estrela cheese is a meticulous art passed down through generations of queijeiras. At the heart of this tradition is the use of thistle flower (Cynara cardunculus) as a natural rennet, a method unique to this region. This plant-based rennet is essential in coagulating the sheep's milk, setting the stage for the cheesemaking process. The typical method for making Serra da Estrela cheese is as follows:
Milking the Sheep: The process begins with milking the Bordaleira sheep, typically done by hand in small-scale operations.
Coagulation: The fresh milk is then mixed with the thistle rennet and left to coagulate. This process can take several hours and requires careful monitoring.
Cutting and Draining the Curd: Once the milk has coagulated, the curd is cut into small pieces to release the whey. The curds are then drained and gently stirred.
Molding and Pressing: The curd is placed into molds, where it is lightly pressed by hand to remove any remaining whey. This step is crucial in defining the cheese's texture.
Aging and Maturation: The cheese is then aged for a period ranging from 30 days to several months. During this time, it develops its characteristic flavor and creamy texture.
The Unique Qualities of Serra da Estrela Cheese
The end product of this tradition is the Serra da Estrela, perhaps the most well-regarded cheese in all of Portugal. Serra da Estrela cheese is renowned for its rich, buttery flavor and smooth, creamy texture. The taste is a delicate balance of savory and slightly tangy notes, a reflection of the diverse pastures where the sheep graze. Unlike many other cheeses, Serra da Estrela is soft and almost spoonable when young, becoming firmer as it ages.
Nutritionally, Serra da Estrela cheese is high in protein and calcium, with beneficial fatty acids that contribute to its rich taste. Its unique qualities make it a prized addition to local cuisine, often enjoyed with crusty bread and robust Portuguese wine.
The cultural significance of Serra da Estrela cheese extends beyond its culinary value. It is a symbol of the region's heritage and a centerpiece of local festivals and celebrations. The annual Serra da Estrela Cheese Festival is a vibrant event where locals and visitors alike can taste and purchase this exceptional cheese, celebrating the hard work and dedication of the shepherds and cheesemakers.
The Future of Shepherding and Cheesemaking in Serra da Estrela
Despite the rich tradition, the future of shepherding and cheesemaking in Serra da Estrela faces significant challenges. Climate change poses a threat to the natural pastures, and economic pressures drive many younger generations away from this demanding lifestyle. The rise of industrial cheese production also puts traditional methods at risk.
In recent years, the communities of Serra da Estrela have increasingly turned to tourism as a means of sustaining their way of life. Recognizing the allure of their picturesque landscape and the appeal of their peaceful, traditional lifestyle, locals are working to attract visitors from around the world. European Union grants have helped develop the infrastructure in this untouched region needed to draw and accommodate tourists, while associations such as the Aldeias de Montanha, a collection of mountain towns in the region, have undertaken extensive PR campaigns to highlight the work of local artisans.
At Terra & Tu, we are proud to be the first and only operator to offer tours in the Serra da Estrela region. Each of our adventures includes hands-on, immersive experiences with shepherds, cheesemakers, breadmakers and other local artisans. It is our hope that, by introducing outsiders to their way of life, we can help keep the tradition of local shepherds and queijeiras alive for generations to come .
