The Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore
The storied history of a hidden Tuscan monastery
We spend a lot of time exploring the Crete Senesi on our Tuscany Wellness Retreats. But of all of the places we visit, one of our favorite sites in the region is the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, a historic Benedictine monastery that is still active to this day. Located in the outskirts of the village of Chiusure, the abbey itself is nestled in a secluded area in the nearby woods.
History of Monte Oliveto Maggiore
The Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore traces its history back to 1313, when Sienese theologian Bernardo Tolomei founded the Order of Our Lady of Mount Olive. Though members of the order initially lived as hermits in the Accona desert, in 1319 they began construction of the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore. The order saw a rapid growth in membership, garnering large sums of tribute money from the wealthy families of Siena. Some of these families gave gifts in hopes to absolve themselves of sin and gain the favor of the church. Others placed their assets under the protection of the abbey in an effort to avoid taxes. In addition to monetary gifts, many donations were given in the form of land. Through significant support from noble families in the region, the abbey became the biggest landowner in Siena and remained so for centuries. This, of course, made the monastery an attractive target for bandits. During your visit, you’ll see the complex defensive structures the abbey built in response to this threat - including a large drawbridge and defensive tower that seem more reminiscent of a medieval stronghold than a secluded monastery”
Visiting The Abbey
The best way to reach the Abbey is on foot. On our Tuscany Adventures, we start our day with a peaceful picnic on the terrace atop Chiusure — which has a fantastic panoramic view of the abbey and surrounding landscape — before we embark on a hike into the valley where the abbey sits. We emerge from the woods at a large drawbridge that takes us into the abbey.
Most visitors are immediately awed by its remarkable cloister, which contains thirty-five frescoes depicting the life of Saint Benedict. Although work on the frescoes began under the famous painter Luca Signorelli in the later 1400s, they were later completed by the relatively unknown Giovanni Antonio Bazzi. Known colloquially among the monks as il Sodoma (the sodomite) due to Bazzi’s promiscuous lifestyle, the artist was also a known prankster. Upon closer inspection of the frescoes, one will notice numerous subtle references to his pranks on the monks — as well as non-so-subtle jabs directed at the order.
On the second story, you’ll find the Monumentale Biblioteca (Monumental Library). As you enter, notice the pietra serena columns, which were masterfully carved by Fra’ Giovanni da Verona. The artist, who himself was an Olivetan monk, is widely regarded as one of the greatest carvers of the renaissance era.
The columns aren’t Verona’s only works of art in the abbey. The main church features a carved wooden choir inlaid by the artist. The intricate designs on each of its 125 stalls make it one of his greatest works. To this day, it’s considered one of the finest designs of its type in all of Italy.
After your tour, you can either hike out the way you came or be picked up at a parking area nearby. On your way out, don’t forget to stop at the winery, where the monks produce and sell their own wine.
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